JOGLE Awards

A few people have asked me to list my favourite experiences of the journey, so in response to this request, I have set out my personal favourites in a handful of categories.

It's been impossible to whittle down the contenders to a top three, so I've bottled out and listed all of the contenders in chronological order.

Best Accommodation (excluding family and friends!):

1. Impala B&B, Wick
2. Culgower House B&B, Loth
3. Rowardennan Youth Hostel
4. Green Shadows B&B, Drymen
5. Buchanan Galleries Premier Inn, Glasgow
6. Marchbankwood B&B, Beattock
7. Stowe View B&B, Knighton
8. Black Dog Inn, Black Dog
9. Number 59 B&B, Okehampton
10. East Raddon Farm B&B, Lewdown
11. Townhouse Rooms B&B, Truro
12. Ship Inn, Mousehole

Best Meals (excluding family and friends!):

1. Culgower House B&B, Loth
2. Fiddler's Rest restaurant, Drumnadrochit
3. Eagle Barge Inn, South Laggan
4. Cobb's Bistro, Fort William
5. Crianlarich Hotel, Crianlarich
6. Rowardennan Youth Hostel
7. Clachan Inn, Drymen
8. Panoramique restaurant, Liverpool
9. Prego restaurant, Monmouth
10. Mamma Mia restaurant, Chepstow
11. Black Dog Inn, Black Dog
12. East Raddon Farm, Lewdown
13. Blue Haze restaurant, Porthleven
14. Ship Inn, Mousehole

Best Walks:

1. John O' Groats to Wick
2. Brora to Golspie
3. Inverness to Drumnadrochit (Great Glen)
4. Kinlochleven to Inveroran (West Highland)
5. Crianlarich to Rowardennan (West Highland)
6. Carnforth to Garstang (Lancaster Canal)
7. Chirk to Llanymynech (Offa's Dyke)
8. Hay on Wye to Llanthony (Offa's Dyke)
9. Okehampton to Lewdown (Two Castles)
10. Porthleven to Mousehole (South West Coast)

Best Views:

1. Orkney isles from John O'Groats
2. Brora beach
3. Kinlochleven from West Highland Way
4. Buachaille Etive Mor and Glen Coe from West Highland Way
5. Loch Lomond from Conic Hill
6. Glasgow from my 18th floor hotel room
7. Lakeland fells from Penrith
8. Wirral peninsula and North Wales from Panoramique restaurant, Liverpool
9. 360 degree view from Moelydd, Offa's Dyke
10. Llanthony Priory from Offa's Dyke
11. St Michael's Mount from South West coast path

Heroes and heroines:
1. Calum from Craigdon Mountain Sports in Inverness for fixing my boot
2. Lynda for being my first walking partner and for lightening my heavy load
3. Donna from Cotswold Outdoor, Liverpool for making my replacement boots so comfortable
4. The staff at the Wetherspoons Central hotel, Shotton for kindness and generosity to a hot and thirsty walker
5. Derek from Newcastle on Clun for being a Good Samaritan to two hot and very thirsty walkers when the local pub didn't open
6. Russell George (Welsh MP, not me!) for giving his time to meet up
7. Sylvia from East Raddon Farm, for accommodating me with open arms, despite a double booking
8. Family and friends who provided accommodation, meals, transport, washing facilities, kit handovers and other services
9. All who joined me on the walk, most of whom left in a worse physical condition than they arrived (sorry!)
10. All the B&Bs, pubs and shops that provided free lunches and drinks
11. My family

Comments welcomed on any of my choices!

Mission accomplished! My initial observations......

Now that the dust has settled and I've unpacked my rucksack, put away my walking boots and cleared my mountain of mail, I've had a chance to reflect on my two month journey and offer some initial observations.

I set off in early June with three main objectives: to survive, to raise as much money as possible for Cancer Research UK, and to enjoy myself.

I survived! After I'd resolved the issues with my right boot in the first week, I was untroubled for the rest of the walk. I was surprised at how well my mind and body coped with the daily onslaught. I didn't wake a single day with any doubts about walking and I feel fitter than I've felt in many years. My feet are in good condition and bear no scars from almost a thousand miles of action.

I'm really grateful to everyone who donated to the cause, from people I know well, to complete strangers. I've raised over £13,500 to date and am confident that I can achieve my increased target of £15,000. Donations still welcome!

My immediate reaction is to state that I did enjoy most of the journey. Yes, there were moments (ok, minutes!) when blisters or excessive heat caused discomfort, but these periods were completely overridden by the wonderful scenery and the companionship of fellow walkers. In truth, my level of enjoyment increased as the walk progressed, perhaps as the prospects of completion increased.

I put much time into route planning and accommodation booking earlier in the year, so am delighted that my efforts paid off. With the exception of a few footpaths which did not materialise, the routes were a great success, often managing to balance conflicting objectives of the shortest route and the most scenic. My accommodation exceeded all expectations, not only in terms of providing a bed, a hot bath or shower and breakfast, but particularly with regard to the friendly and welcoming hospitality offered by my hosts.

My equipment served me well. My walking boots had to be stretched, then eventually replaced due to wear and tear, but my second pair had no opportunity to be broken in, yet remained completely comfortable to the end. My rucksack accommodated everything with ease and, though quite heavy, fitted well. My waterproofs had very limited use, but performed well when called upon. Star item was my smartphone, which acted as phone, text, internet, GPS mapping, camera, weather alert, and blog provider - all from a device which fits in my pocket.

My approach to the entire journey was to take each day at a time. While this sounds like a sporting cliche, it allowed me to focus on the current walk and not be overwhelmed by the daunting prospect of the bigger picture. I found that this approach worked well for me and took pleasure out of ticking off each day's completed mileage.

I'd expected the first week or so of the journey from John O' Groats to be lonely, but I underestimated the scale and duration of this. I hadn't expected to see or communicate with so few people during the walk, but even on the Great Glen Way and the West Highland Way, most walkers were travelling in the opposite direction, which limited the opportunity for enhanced conversation.

My lasting impression of the walk is that Great Britain is still very much a green and pleasant land. Scotland is much greater in length than most people appreciate, but my route slice through England and Wales included so few urban or industrial areas (Preston, Liverpool and Avonmouth), that it is difficult not to view most of the walk as rural. As a consequence, I encountered varied landscapes of hills and valleys, rivers and canals, farmland and forests, a slower pace of life, a closer relationship with nature and a heightened sense of community, history and tradition. Long may it remain.

I really enjoyed meeting up with family and friends during the journey, although practically this was mainly restricted to England and Wales. It was fantastic to meet up with people I hadn't seen for some time (some for over twenty years), even if it was only a fleeting visit. Similarly, it was good to walk with companions, even if some left in greater pain than they arrived!

Another overarching memory is of the kindness of strangers, not just in donating to my cause, but in frequently going way beyond the normal boundaries. This extended to accommodation providers, walkers, pub landlords, shop owners and complete strangers - the man who invited us to join his family for a drink when the local inn was closed was not an isolated example.

I can't review my journey without mentioning the weather. I read a few blogs from people who'd undertaken the same journey in the summer of 2012 and they regularly mentioned rain, waterproofs, mud and puddles. I duly planned for similar conditions, so was pleasantly surprised that northern Scotland provided sunshine. What I didn't expect was the extended heatwave, from Lancashire to Somerset. This provided an additional challenge to the hilly Offa's Dyke section of the walk, especially in ensuring that sufficient liquids could be obtained en route. The rain I experienced was pitifully little, so my waterproofs barely made a handful of appearances in 57 days.

My gripes are few and insignificant. Some footpaths were poorly signposted or overgrown (some were both!), some A roads did not cater for pedestrians and cyclists to the point of being dangerous (mostly in Cornwall) and too many pubs were closed when there is clearly demand for them at lunchtimes.

A number of people have already asked if I would repeat the journey. My straight answer is that I would, with minimal changes, but I simply couldn't replicate the unique atmosphere and circumstances of undertaking the walk for the first time, such as the prospect of a journey into the unknown or the fundraising challenge. However, I'm sure there's another adventure in the making.........

My next blog will report my favourite accommodation, meals, walks and views, as well as paying tribute to some heroes and heroines.

Day 57: Mousehole to Land's End

Distance: 11.0 miles
Time: 4 hrs
Weather: Sunny
Cumulative distance: 955.8 miles

The final day. A gentle stroll with the children, one last missing footpath, arrival at Land's End and, eventually, home.

We had a late family breakfast (nine o'clock being the earliest possible), then Daniel, Hannah and I set off in glorious sunshine. Time prevented us from following the coast path, so we walked along minor country lanes to Lamorna, then joined a track which climbed out of the valley.

Fate had decreed that there should be one final detour due to a disappearing footpath. The initial signpost was present and the map clearly set out the route between two farms. Reality led us to a field of wheat and another field blocked by wire netting. I adopted my usual approach - don't panic, head in the right general direction and cross fingers and toes. Fortunately it worked again as we rejoined a minor road, resulting in only a small detour.

We were all a little thirsty, so when a country pub appeared out of the blue, we readily agreed to stop for final refreshments. We walked the final few miles along a B road, then Carole joined us for the last quarter of a mile to Land's End. Due to the detour and additional stops, I was one hour later than planned, but it didn't matter.

Crossing the official finish line was, to my surprise, not an emotional experience. No sense of relief, more sadness that the journey was over. The sun was shining, which felt like a really fitting end after two months of remarkably good weather. We walked to the reception at the Land's End Hotel, where I had my official record card stamped, then strolled over to the official signpost for the obligatory photo. As the photographer snapped away, a crowd of onlookers burst into applause.

We had lunch at the hotel restaurant - I celebrated with a Greek salad and a pint of Tribute ale. Then it was time to depart for home. Job done.

We called in very briefly at East Raddon Farm, to visit Sylvia and her family. Unsurprisingly, her hospitality stretched to tea and cakes. We finally arrived home at 11pm.

I've decided to keep my blog running for a few more days. I'll set out my observations on the overall journey, but I've also been requested to list my favourite walks, views, accommodation and meals etc, so I'll include those too.

Day 57: NEWS FLASH - LAND'S END

Just arrived at Land's End!!! Full blog to follow later.

Day 56: Porthleven to Mousehole

Distance: 16.5 miles
Time: 6 hrs 55 mins
Weather: Cloudy
Cumulative distance: 944.8 miles

A day on the South West coastal path - an exhilarating clifftop hike, followed by a sea front walk through Penzance and Newlyn.

After a family breakfast, and once Daniel was finally ready to depart, we set off along the path to the opposite side of the harbour. Hannah joined us for the first few minutes, then returned to the prospect of her other love, shopping.

We joined the South West coastal path and, within minutes, we were walking along the undulating, honeysuckle clad clifftop track, with magnificent views along the rocky coastline and down to the crashing waves below. We encountered a number of old industrial ruins along the path, as well as wild ponies and a peregrine falcon.

We stopped for lunch (inevitably, Cornish pasty) and a pint of Trelawny ale (well, a coke for Daniel) at Marazion, where the clifftop path gave way to a flat track along the sea front to Penzance. The route then alternated between roads and footpaths through the fishing town of Newlyn, before we turned around the coast and arrived at Mousehole (pronounced 'Mauzl'), where we had a family room booked at the Ship Inn.

We had a delicious meal at the Ship (I opted for wonderfully fresh mackerel) and I sampled the HSD ale from St Austell brewery. Afterwards, right outside our bedroom window, we were treated to a display from a troupe of Morris dancers.

So, the end is nigh. After months of planning and training, followed by eight weeks of strenuous walking, the final day is about to dawn. It's difficult to believe that this mammoth journey is nearly over, but I really have run out of country, so Land's End is an appropriate conclusion.

Day 55: Truro to Porthleven

Distance: 21.2 miles
Time: 7 hrs 55 mins
Weather: Light drizzle
Cumulative distance: 928.3 miles

A day of country lanes and footpaths in the drizzle, a few missing signposts, the seaside and a family reunion.

After breakfast, we set off in drizzle and soon reached a country lane which took us away from civilised Truro towards Bissoe, but which was also a short cut popular with local motorists.

We stopped for an early lunch at Stithians - our first Cornish pasty, which we ate whilst sat on a bench in the rain. It still tasted good, even if we departed somewhat damper.

We followed a couple of footpaths which resulted in shorter routes, but came unstuck on a later footpath due a lack of signposts. We found ourselves next to a reservoir, having deviated from the scheduled route, but quickly found an alternative route. Unfortunately, another missing signpost resulted in a further deviation and we were soon walking across a field in the mist, not quite sure how to rejoin our route. With the assistance of GPS, we were back on track, but time and miles had been expended unnecessarily.

At Porkellis, we stopped for a coke at an inn. As we left, the landlord came running after us to tell us we were heading in the wrong direction for Land's End, so I had to explain that we would be walking along the scenic coastal path to get there.

After a longer than planned walk, which Daniel's legs did not appreciate, we skirted Helston, climbed over the hill and finally arrived at the bustling harbour of Porthleven, to be reunited with my wife and daughter for the first time in two months.

Our hotel was nearby, offering super views across the harbour (see photo). This was the first time I'd been so close to the sea since the early days of the walk in Scotland. It was good to smell the brine and to hear the sound of the gulls flying overhead.

We had a family meal at the Blue Haze fish restaurant on the opposite side of the harbour. The meal was excellent and there were splendid views over the harbour. My drink? A bottle of Porthleven ale from Skinner's brewery - what else?

Day 54: Roche to Truro

Distance: 18.7 miles
Time: 6 hrs 30 mins
Weather: Morning drizzle, dry and bright later
Cumulative distance: 906.1 miles

Cornish country lanes in the rain, danger on the A39, quiet tracks, 900 miles clocked and delightful accommodation in Truro.

We each consumed the contents of our Travelodge breakfast box (orange juice, cornflakes and milk, croissant and muffin), then set off in light drizzle to the centre of Roche, where we purchased lunch from the Co-op.

We passed through Nanpean and St Stephen, before stopping at Ladock, where we sat on a bench next to the portacabin shop and post office to have lunch. Soon afterwards the rain stopped and the sun gradually saw off the clouds.

After St Erme we had to join the main A39 for about a mile. Despite being a busy, major road, there were no cycle or pedestrian paths and the grass verges were either too narrow or non existent. This only confirmed my observation that Cornwall's major roads are the least pedestrian and cycle friendly of all the roads I have experienced in the last two months.

It was a relief to join a minor country lane which followed a wooded valley and eventually led us to the outskirts of the fine city of Truro. Inevitably, our B&B was located at the top of a hill just outside the town centre.

The Townhouse provided a friendly welcome,a very comfortable room and a hot shower, but additionally it offered complimentary hot drinks and home made cakes.

In bright sunshine, we wandered down the hill to explore the centre of Truro. The shops were closed, but we did spot the Christmas shop (only 147 days to go!) and the impressive cathedral, which dominates the skyline. We dined at Pizza Express, housed in the former Coinage House.

I reached the 900 mile landmark today, but the days and the miles are running out. I feel that I need to savour every remaining moment, as my epic journey nears its conclusion.