Day 39: Kington to Hay-on-Wye

Distance: 15.6 miles
Time: 5 hrs 20 mins
Weather: Hot and sunny
Cumulative distance: 661.3 miles

A wonderful ridge walk and arrival in the capital of second hand books.

After a full night's sleep (a rare event on my journey), I checked out of the hotel and started the gradual climb up to the Hergest Ridge (Mike Oldfield, who lived locally, named his second album after it, following the success of Tubular Bells). I reached a broad, grassy path which teasingly continued to ascend, but offered superb views of the Shropshire hills and the Black mountains. I met a group of four people, three of whom were holding up umbrellas as protection against the sun as they walked. Later on I encountered John and Judith from Chester, who had planned a number of long distance walks this summer, including the West Highland Way.

My guidebook referred to a shop in Gladestry, from which I'd planned to buy some lunch. Unfortunately the shop appeared to have closed down since the book was written, so I diverted from the path and detoured through Clyro, which offered a shop and a pub, both of which were open.

I arrived in Hay-on-Wye early afternoon and ate some lunch overlooking the River Wye. I checked into my B&B, aptly named Rest for the Tired. I had to crouch to get through the four foot nine inch high doorway!

After a snooze, I wandered around town and quickly confirmed that this is the second hand books capital of the UK. Every other shop seemed to sell books, with some specialising in specific themes, such as murder and mystery or transport.

I dined at Kilverts, which was holding a Welsh beer festival. To accompany my moussaka, I sampled Butty Bach from Wye Valley brewery and Porters 06 from Otley brewery, Pontypridd.

Back in my room in the eaves, I noticed that the literary theme continued - there was a shelf laden with books on the floor and the television was supported by several hardbacks.