Day 15: Crianlarich to Rowardennan

Distance: 16.8 miles
Time: 7 hrs 50 mins
Weather: Sunny
Cumulative distance: 264.0 miles

Slow progress along a challenging path, then arrival in paradise.

Last night's dinner at the Crianlarich Hotel was a mainly Scottish selection - Cullen Skink (a rich creamy soup of smoked haddock and potato), haddock and chips, and a cheese selection (Blue Monday, Mull Cheddar and Morangie Brie) with oatcakes and quince, washed down with Colonsay bitter.

I usually go for a wander around the local area after I've eaten, as this is often the only opportunity I have of being a tourist for a few minutes and it gives me a brief chance to explore my destination. As I returned from the short main street in Crianlarich at around 9pm, three women carrying backpacks appeared and asked for directions to the hotel. They had been walking all day from Rowardennan and looked exhausted. This is my destination today, but fortunately I had at least reduced the distance by three miles.

From my bedroom window,  I watched the night sleeper train glide into the station and head off into the fading light minutes later. Did part of me wish that I too was speeding south to wake in the big city in the morning? No way!

I checked out of the hotel, which was excellent apart from the shower, which was out of keeping with the rest of the facilities. Now I had to find transport to rejoin the route, some 3 miles south. The Glasgow bus appeared, but the driver said he wasn't allowed to drop me off before the first scheduled stop 5 miles away. Crianlarich certainly wasn't going to trouble the road traffic reporters during the 8.30 rush hour, in fact a family of hedgehogs could have safely crossed the road and returned. Fortunately, a van delivery driver responded and kindly dropped me off right where I left the route yesterday.

The path followed the river for a few miles, then I had my first view of Loch Lomond. For over five miles, the narrow rocky path clung precariously to the wooded hillside just metres from the loch. Ancient trees with gnarled roots consumed the pathway. Progress was really laboured as it was frequently necessary to use hands to clamber over the rocks and roots, and I had to concentrate on every step to ensure that I didn't lose my balance.

I stopped for a snack from my provisions at a beautiful secluded beach (photo below), one of the most scenic pit stops I've had during my journey.

There was time to chat to a few approaching walkers along the way. A lady from Inverness recalled the long hot summer of 1976 and two men from Seattle waxed lyrical about the scenery. Two oil rig workers from Edinburgh and Essex were walking the WHW to raise funds for the Alzheimer's society.

I finally arrived at tonight's accommodation, an impressive country house, positioned in large tree lined gardens on the banks of Loch Lomond. My room is spacious, so I was able to carefully empty the contents of my rucksack. After a refreshing hot shower, I basked in the early evening sunshine next to the loch. Dinner was corn, coconut and red pepper soup, spinach and ricotta canneloni, and tiramisu ice cream cake. Tonight's ale - Bonnie N'Bitter from Loch Lomond brewery. As I write my blog, I'm relaxing in the library overlooking the loch (photo below). I probably forgot to mention - I'm staying in a youth hostel tonight. But this is no ordinary youth hostel, this is paradise!