Day 16: Rowardennan to Drymen

Distance: 15.1 miles
Time: 6 hrs 25 mins
Weather: Rain showers, sun later
Cumulative distance: 279.1 miles

RAIN, a steep hill and an early arrival.

My waterproof jacket and trousers may have been waiting for 16 days to make their debuts, but when called into action, they were ready to serve. The showers had been forecasted for a few days, so it was no surprise when the heavens opened late on Friday night.

I checked out of Paradise Hostel and followed a path along the shores of Loch Lomond. The rain was light and it was not too unpleasant walking in it. My waterproof rucksack cover was also being employed for the first time, but this brought with it an inconvenience - I couldn't reach for my water bottle without stopping to remove the cover.

Approaching Balmaha, I spotted a newborn Highland calf with its mother. Neither seemed to object to having a photo taken.

After an iced coke in Balmaha, I had a decision to make. The WHW route offers an alternative here - climb up Conic Hill or continue along the road. It was wet, there was low cloud around and a shorter route seemed attractive, but I opted for the hill. Conic Hill is on the Highland geological fault line which separates the mountains of Northern Scotland from the lowlands of the South. The climb was steep, but the views across Loch Lomond and beyond in all directions were splendid.

The path continued through forest plantations on my map, but through a felled wasteland in reality. I decided to take a detour to my B&B, before heading into Drymen for food later. I hadn't checked the opening time due to lack of WiFi signal, so I arrived at 3.10pm, but official opening was at 4pm. Gail, the owner, kindly let me in and I sorted out my damp clothes.

The Clachan Inn in the village was recommended for my evening meal. I set off to walk there, but I couldn't find the footpath across the fields which was indicated when I asked for directions en route. I ended up having to walk across a river, climb up a steep bank and tiptoe through deep mud. It was a relief to reach the pub and the food (king prawn, salmon and monkfish kebabs) and drink (Sheepshagger's Ale) were worth the adventure. Gail kindly chauffeured me back to the B&B.